Sunday, May 01, 2005

Beloved Bolivia

My favourite South American country by far. The warnings (eg: food is terrible, transport not good, danger around the border) about the country, I found, were far from the truth and infact I found it a country with tranquil people, breathtaking landscapes, a fascinating culture and excellent food (especially the soups - quinoa es muy rico. Note, we were careful to stay away from the USD1.00 menu del dia (3 course set menu) although there was one time we accidently had it. We survived).

Even La Paz was an interesting place with it´s witches markets full of dried llama foetuses, pachamama and pachapapa statues, and other curious little ornaments to protect one´s home, health and wealth. For a small sum you could have your fortune read by one of the Quechua (indigenous) ppl on the street using coca leaves spread out on a colourful weaving, not that you`d be able to understand it. My castellano is challenged enough without having to comprehend Quechuan.

There have been so many prime opportunities for excellent shots but it was a little difficult to take them as the people are afraid of the ´´evil eye´´ of the camera believing that it will take their souls away. This also applies to their llamas and alpacas although a farmer on Isla del Sol in Lake Titicaca told me that his llama was prone to spitting if I took his photo. Anyway, I practised taking undercover photos as demonstrated to me by one of our mates which involves holding the camera by your leg and clicking away. This results in a lot of pictures of dirt roads though.

So, our journey took us from La Paz to Lake Titicaca where we chilled at Copacabana (yes, another town with that name) and then took a boat across to Isla del Sol, an high altitude (4,000m) island of 1,000 inhabitants whose primary activity is farming and fishing, where we did some walking and chilling. Fantastic to wander around the villages connected by pathways where the only means of transport are your feet. No vehicles, no roads. We did view some ruins (Chinkana - an Incan labyrinth) and other historical points of interest (sacred rock in shape of puma) in Challapampa, the northern end. The Incans believe that this island is where the sun dropped onto the earth to give birth to Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo, the first Incans. It`s still very primitive with it`s inhabitants living very simple lives. I loved watching the sunrise from our balcony and seeing a woman meticulously combing and plaiting her hair into 2 parts before donning her bowler hat. Sadly, we couldn`t stay longer.

It is a beautiful country and I love it all. This is a country I will definitely visit again. Hasta pronto Bolivia!

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